Handling your gecko: When you get a new Gargoyle gecko, it is best to keep handling to a minimum for the first few weeks. Geckos are arboreal (live in trees and bushes) and pretty tough, however, babies can be injured easier if dropped. If you are new to holding geckos, it may be best to sit on the floor so that the gecko does not fall from a high distance. The best way to pick up a gecko is to put one hand in front of it and prod it onto your hand. Gargoyles like to jump, so it is good to have one hand out ahead of the other so that he can jump to it. You can then walk them from hand to hand.
Humidity and water: You should always offer a small water dish for your geckos to drink from. A bottle cap will work fine. It is important to keep the right humidity so that they can shed and hydrate properly. You should mist your gecko once a day, preferably in the late evening. The mist should raise the humidity to 50-70%. The tank still should be slightly damp in the morning when you get up and then dry by the next night. Too high of humidity can also cause respiratory issues. You can add or remove ventilation until you get the right amount to keep the humidity right.
Food: One of the main concerns of a new gecko owner is that the new gecko is eating. It is especially hard to tell if a very small baby is eating. They have a very small stomach and may not eat much. The best way to know if your gecko is eating is to look for droppings. You should not worry about the gecko eating unless it is losing weight or looking unhealthy.
Here at The Gargoyle Den we believe that variety is the key to having a well balanced diet. If you are having trouble getting your gecko to eat, try a different brand and flavor. New gecko’s diet can be added to the dish every other day. Throw out or clean the dish as needed. If food is being wasted or it seems the gecko is not eating much, try to feed twice a week so that the gecko is hungry when food is provided.
Gut loaded insects, dusted with calcium, are another great way to give your geckos a healthy snack. The extra protein is always good, and the calcium helps develop strong bones and healthy eggs. Crickets and roaches are great feeder insects for Gargoyle geckos. If you can not get your gecko to eat bugs, try smashing or cutting the bug and put the juice on the geckos nose. Once they taste it, they will know it is a food source. Another trick I have found successful is to dip the insect in gecko food.
Housing: If you prefer to have an attractive set up to impress your friends, terrariums are the way to go! I always recommend paper towel substrate for all babies and juveniles. A baby should be kept in a smaller size tank. An 8x8x12 would be great for a baby. A 12x12x18 would work for a baby if he is closely monitored. 12x12x18 is great for juveniles and even for one adult. 18x18x24 or larger is the best option for adults. Many of these terrariums come with a full screen top and this may not hold enough humidity. If your tank is drying out too quickly, you may need to partially cover the top.
Sterilite tubs are a great option of housing multiple geckos efficiently. Each Sterilite tub should have ventilation. I find that the best way to ventilate the tub is to drill small holes on one end and trim the burs off of the holes with a razor. By putting the holes on one end you can have a dry side and a humid side. Hatchlings can be kept in a 6 qt Sterilite tub until they are somewhere between 15-20 grams. They should be moved to a 20 qt Sterilite tub until they reach about 35-40 grams. Once they reach this size, they should be in a full size tub.
Temperature: Gargoyle geckos should be kept at room temperature. There is no special heating needed. Temperature in the winter should be 68-75, with summer temperature of 75-85.
Lighting: Gargoyle geckos are nocturnal, so no special lighting is needed. They only need a day and night cycle. UV light in a properly set of enclosure may be beneficial but not a necessity.
Substrate and Poop: Paper towel is the best substrate for beginners for several reasons. If you use dirt or other substrates, you geckos could swallow it and cause an impaction. Another great advantage of using paper towel is that you can see how often they poop. If your gecko is pooping, that means he is eating. It can also be hard to find eggs if your female lays in a dirt substrate. Once you are successfully keeping geckos in a sterile environment, then you could research in Bioactive.
Humid hide / lay box: We recommend that you offer a humid hide for your gecko. This will help the gecko with shedding and provide a place for females to lay eggs. Damp sphagnum moss in a small container or reptile hide works very well. Clear tubs are great for breeding females as you will be able to look at it from the bottom to see if there are eggs laid.
Shedding issues: Probably the most common health problem is shedding issues. This is typically caused by improper humidity. If you see your gecko is having shedding issues, the best thing to do is get him hydrated. Place the gecko in a deli cup along with paper towel on the bottom, then spray the gecko down heavily. Place the gecko in a cool dark closet for a few hours or overnight. If the shed is still stuck you can use a damp q-tip to gently run the shed off of toes or affected area.